Extending the Oca Growing Season through Frost Protection

The death of foliage from frost signals the end of the oca season, but at this time of year when tuberisation is in full swing, any slight extension of the growing season will have the maximum effect on crop yield. I stress that again; even one extra week without killing frost could easily  have more effect on yield than any other factor over the whole growing period.

But it's important to point out that oca can survive light frosts, and there may be some variation among varieties in this ability.
Furthermore, it has been speculated that cold weather or slight frost damage may contribute to initiate or accelerate tuber bulking.

Most frosts in autumn are radiation frosts, occurring on clear windless nights, often just for an hour or so at dawn. These are capable of being combatted more easily than advection frosts, which are associated with a more fundamental and long lasting atmospheric low temperatures.

So until new varieties with day-length-neutral tendencies come along, here are 20 ways to minimise the risk of crop loss from frost:

Topographic placement and aspect. Avoiding frost pockets, and facilitating cold air drainage away from crops is a well understood method. Less commonly understood, is the effect of the upslope area; depending on the soil surface, this can chill or warm the air flowing down over the cropping area. Bare soil, or hard surfaces will produce warmer conditions than continuous ground vegetation or thick mulch.
South-facing slopes will receive and store higher levels of the sun's energy than north facing, and so have more to radiate during the night.

Mini-scale cold air drainage. Raised beds can protect from slight frosts by allowing cold air to drain away to the lower path areas. Paths should be unobstructed, and run downslope to drain air efficiently, though this may conflict with soil erosion considerations. Beds with high wooden edging are as likely to trap frost as they are to shed it. Growing on supports such as netting, pea sticks, or a tall companion crop may also have some beneficial effect in keeping top growth above the coldest air.

Come the first frost, this oca crop should benefit from its bed being raised by a foot or so above the paths, and from its companion crop of sweetcorn, who's dried stems will be left in situ after harvest to trap radiated warmth. The mulch of rotten hay will prevent the soil from keeping the air warm, so should be removed before frosts are due in autumn.

Downslope air flow. Any areas or rows of harvested tall crops should be cleared away before frosts if they are located where they may obstruct or slow the cold air flow away from the crop bed in question.

Cold Hardening. Exposure to cold conditions is considered by some to increase the crop's frost tolerance, but this effect is apparently nullified by any following period of warm weather, so refrain from adding polythene crop protection if the weather is merely cool. Interestingly, cold hardening of many plant species is associated with the translocation of carbohydrates to the roots, so this may be significant in accelerating tuber bulking.

Nutritional Hardening. There is some research showing that plant nutrition may influence frost resistance. Understanding seems poor, but it's probably beneficial to avoid nitrogen feeds in the period coming up to the frost season.

Sacrificial companion crops. A taller crop grown with the oca can help to hold warmer air close to the ground. Yacon works well, and can usually produce good crops itself before frost arrives, as it is not day-length sensitive. A slight disadvantage is that once frosted, the companion crop looses some of its protective value due to reduced canopy density.

Yacon burned by frost. The Oca underneath is undamaged.

Crop debris from previous companion crop. The dead standing remains of tender tall crops (such as corn, tomatoes or quinoa) grown with the oca during the Summer can provide some slight frost protection if they are left in place.

Cordon tomatoes growing over oca in late Summer. The dead foliage canopy can provide some frost protection later in the year.

Self sacrificial protection. Outermost foliage of oca plants will be killed by the first light frost...

...leaving the rest of the plant unharmed. This is possibly instrumental in boosting the plants' rate of tuberisation. Growing large healthy plants from a full season's growth, or planting at close spacing will result in dense, thick foliage capable of absorbing several frost events before the plant is killed.

Physical covers. Polythene, horticultural fleece, newspaper, netting, straw, or sacking can protect against several degrees of frost. For simple management, they need not be removed between frosts, but simply left in place until harvest. Avoid placing them too early, or the plants' cold-hardening adaption may be compromised.

Scaffold debris netting protecting a bed of oca. After a night of -4°C the plants are limp but not killed. Other root crops in the photo are (from top left clockwise) celeriac, Hamburg parsley, chuffa, skirret.

Casual covering. Crop debris collected from nearby spent crops, such as pea haulms, corn stalks, weeds, etc can simply be thrown over the crop, then left until harvest time. N.B this is not a soil mulch, which would reduce soil radiation; it must be placed over the crop foliage to hold radiated warmth around it.

Water spraying. Popular with commercial fruit growers, this relies on latent heat of fusion released during the freezing of water sprayed over the crop. Automated systems are de rigueur for this method, but for really precious crops, some folk may be willing to get up in the middle of a freezing night with the hose! There is an account of using this method on oca crops here. It's strange and counterintuitive, but having the foliage plated in ice really can stop it freezing.

Air disturbance. Some commercial fruit growers use giant fans, or even low flying helicopters to mix air layers, and so prevent crops freezing. Rather an expensive method!

Added thermal mass. Laying bricks, concrete slabs, containers of water, etc on or near the crop beds will increase thermal capacity.

Soil density. Soil with a high ratio of voids (air pockets) will hold less heat than solid soil, and will give up that heat more slowly due to the insulating effect of air, so avoid cultivating the bed, especially as the frost season approaches, to keep the soil dense, and maximise heat storage capacity.

Soil colour. Dark colours are more efficient absorbers and emitters of radiated heat. Building up soil humus levels to darken it, or dusting the surface with soot are effective and traditional. Small amounts of charcoal might work, but there is  a danger that the effect is counteracted by its insulating properties.

Soil surface area. Soil surface with corrugations or 'lumpiness'  has a greater surface area, so is able to deliver heat faster than a smooth soil surface. Raised beds or ridged rows also score here, having a greater area than flat beds.

Soil surface insulation. Any mulch present will greatly reduce radiated heat from the soil compared to bare soil. Rake back mulches when frost threatens. Peaty soils are also poor heat radiators.

Weed Management. Weeds under the crop are undesirable as they reduce radiation from the soil, however weeds taller than the crop are protective, holding warmth under them.

Soil wetness. Water has a higher heat storage capacity than the mineral content of soil, so wet soil will have more heat to radiate to the air. If soil is dry in early winter (as if!) extra watering will help protect against frost.

Active heating. Some fruit orchards used to be protected by smudge pots, or even heaps of burning tyres, but this has fallen out of fashion/become illegal, to be replaced by large propane or petrol burners. Obviously none of these methods are particularly sustainable, or justifiable in current times. The use of manure-fueled hotbeds may work, but controllability and reliability of effect is poor, and the labour involved huge. If heat has to be added artificially to a crop, in my mind, it's a sign that it's the wrong crop for the location.

Oca Harvest? Wait for It, Wait for It...

These are my main 'eating crop' of Oca...

It's more than two weeks since frost killed off the top growth, and received wisdom says now is the best time to harvest for maximum yield.
They certainly look as if they've completely snuffed it — until, that is, the top layer of dead foliage is pulled back...

The stems underneath are still green and succulent.
And below ground, roots and subterranean stems are also alive and well, continuing to build tubers...

An interesting approach would be to try to enhance this self-protecting effect by using closer plant spacing. The resulting denser foliage might provide sacrificial protection against significant frost in much the same way as a covering of horticultural fleece.
Using raised beds, earthing up, and planting under suitable taller crops are also cultural methods that may give partial frost protection.

It's a gamble to wait too long, as I found to my cost in 2009, but the weather has been mild and as a result vermin have not been digging up the tubers much. The ten-day forecast shows no imminent frost that would spoil tubers close to the surface, so on balance, I think it's worth waiting to give those tubers the maximum time to bulk up.

Checking and Storing Oca Seed Tubers

A typical Oca harvest is a bit like a '60s Terry Thomas film -  sure to contain the odd rotter.
Oca tubers contain natural fungicides, and have good resistance to moulds and rots, but if they have been exposed to frost there is no escaping the fact that they are doomed to smelly putrefaction (have a look), and while most of the obvious casualties will have been spotted early when the tubers were lifted and washed, there are usually a few with minor damage that sneak through.
So now, a week or two after harvest, it's time to recheck stocks for any smelly surprises before storing them away until Spring.

And yes, several tubers (those on the plate) needed to be binned. If I had been desperate, I could have sliced off the affected parts, dipped the cut surface in wood ash, and the remaining material would probably have been fine for storing and replanting, but I'm in the fortunate position of having enough tubers.

As I sorted through, I was also carefully checking for any colour mutations, and when I saw the tuber below, just for a second I thought I had the potential to propagate a piebald strain.

Superficially, it looked like the area around one of the eyes had mutated to have black skin -  similar to the black Oca I obtained in the autumn.

But then I spotted an entry-hole leading to this tunnel. I think it's probably wireworm damage. I did notice one making a swim for it when I was washing the tubers.




With all the baddies removed, It's just a matter of selecting the good sized tubers, and putting them into storage. I use egg boxes (with lids closed to reduce drying out) as it helps to keep things organised, and makes occasional inspection easy...

...but the tubers seem to remain viable no matter how badly they are stored over winter; if left uncovered in a  heated room, they will shrivel up, but they will still sprout when the time is right.
If you are fussy about maintaining the visual appearance of the tubers, then aim to reduce the rate of moisture loss, for example by wrapping in newspaper, or a paper bag, or covering with almost-dry sand or sawdust, and placing them in an unheated room, or frost-free shed.
Be aware that if you go for the shed option, mice can develop a taste for them.

I'll start checking for shoots sprouting around late March.

2010 Oca Crop - Harvest

In agriculture there is always a 'right time' to do things, but even with hindsight it would be hard to define the best time to lift the Oca this year. Getting a balance between delaying harvest to maximise tuber development, versus lifting early to avoid damage from frost is a difficult call at the best of times, but this year it was always going to be wrong; with a very early first-frost in October, and a record-breaking cold spell in December, this was not an 'Oca-year'.
The top growth has been dead for several weeks now, but harvest has been delayed either by snow cover, sub-zero temperatures, heavy rain, or pessimism-induced lethargy. However, the snow cover has been the saviour of the crop...

...it has insulated the ground during the really cold spell, so most tubers have escaped damage.
Tubers are generally small, and yield is well below that of previous years, but a few plants have produced a reasonable crop, while a couple have failed to make any tubers at all.

The unfavourable conditions have at least acted to highlight the productivity differences between varieties.  My planting stocks have been maintained, and there are enough extras for swapping and eating.

So a bad year, but mustn't grumble.

Unimpressive Ulluco Harvest

Like the Oca, my Ulluco plants were hit by a light frost back in October (have a look).  Some plants died, while a few hung on to life until the recent really cold weather set in. The other day, I decided that I may as well see what was below ground.  I was expecting a poor crop, and that's just what I got...

... a handful of tubers not much bigger than beans. So no need to fetch the wheelbarrow then.

This handful wouldn't even make one meal, but they're satisfying enough as eye-candy to reward the light work of lifting them. They are just too good-looking to give up on yet.  At least I've maintained my planting stock for next year, and what's more, only the plants which survived the first frost produced tubers, so I now have the offspring of the marginally hardier individuals.

Day-length neutrality, or frost-hardiness  – I don't mind, either would do for me.

Early Frost Carnage

Drat the BBC weather forecast!
4ºC was the forecasted minimum last night.  I believed them, but they got it wrong. The Oca bed looks pretty well devastated.

Yacon leaves are blackened...

...or at least the outermost ones. Those lower down seem to have survived damage, and I think the plants will recover.










This bed of Ulluco has been flattened too.

The only Andean to be unaffected is the Mashua, which is nonchalantly preparing to flower.

This is a freakily early frost for this area, and the situation is all the more annoying because I have rolls of mesh ready-and-waiting to give protection.

At first sight all seemed lost. But when I carefully lifted up some of the slaughtered Oca foliage, the optimist in me could see less-damaged stems underneath. I think they may live. Fingers crossed.
More checking revealed that the Oca in the 'all-tuber polyculture mound' have been protected, albeit sacrificially, by the yacon foliage. Free-range Oca on 'the other plot' are also alive and well, protected by their close polyculture competitor/companions.

This scare got me thinking. If it had been one degree colder, and all the Oca were killed this early in the year, they probably would not tuberise, and I'd be left with no seed tubers for next year. If the cold snap were to be geographically widespread, it might be very hard to find replacements. Does anyone keep Oca tubers dormant in cool-storage as an insurance policy against this sort of situation?

Not me, but maybe I should.

Oca : Pest & Disease-Free - Not!

Another of the things that is often repeated about Oca is that it is immune to disease and insect attack. Well, that would be nice, but deeper investigation reveals that in its home Andean habitat, it suffers serious attack by assorted nematodes, tuber borers, fungi and viruses. But the question is, how does it fare when faced with our native UK pestilence?
So here are the main problems I've encountered:


Slugs
Slime trails and munched leaves. Yes, slugs will eat Oca, but I find it to be quite rare. All of that oxalic acid in the leaves is a natural defence, and they seem to move on after a few leaves at most.



Unidentified Leaf Lurgy
I think this is some kind of rust fungus. It usually only appears on plants that are stressed by heat and lack of moisture, and the plant recovers given more favourable conditions. Those growing in light shade do not seem to suffer this problem to the same degree.

Frost
Not a pest, just frost-damage. The outer leaves have been killed by a light air frost, but the stems are undamaged.
See also here for more on frost damage to foliage, and here for tuber damage.

Unidentified Stem-rot
This stem rot occurs at ground level, usually just browning the stem, but occasionally withering it all the way through, causing the foliage to die. I've seen this every year to some extent, so it may be something that survives my composting process, or which is permanently present in the soil.
I've seen healthy and diseased stems right next to each other without it spreading, although on one occasion I've had a (weak) plant completely killed. It looks similar to potato blackleg.

Blackfly
Now and again I've seen blackfly on stems and leaves, but they have never stayed long, usually moving on to some nearby preferred venue, such as broad beans or peas, so presumably they don't like the taste of Oca.
Although they don't do too much direct harm, there is always the concern that they may carry viruses from plant to plant, so as a precaution I squash 'em on sight.

Rats & Birds
I've had an instance of rats and birds (I think ring-necked parakeets) scratching up and damaging tubers during very hard weather. I think this was only because of the desperate conditions, but it is worth watching out for swelling tubers pushing themselves up out of the ground where they could be an obvious target for hungry vermin.


So, quite a short list compared with diseases of, say potatoes. Though of course the list is probably not complete yet!

The All-Tuber Polyculture Mound

In a quiet corner of 'my other plot' I'm trying another cultural method - a four foot wide mound with three different tuber crops grown closely together. I'm aiming for a low-maintenance easily-harvested dense ruck of tuberous productivity.

Unlike standard polycultures, a clear requirement for an all-tuber polyculture is that the crops involved should mature, and be harvested all at the same time, otherwise lifting one will disturb the roots of those remaining.
Oca, Yacon, and Chinese Artichokes together satisfy this criterion quite well, all normally being harvested after their top growth has been killed by frost.

I started in Spring by clearing the area of the previous Jerusalem artichoke crop (yeah, right!), and digging in a barrow-load of rough compost. This was more to improve water retention and aid soil friability (and hence make harvesting easier) than it was to boost fertility. On top of the mound goes one of my prized new variety purple Yacon, purportedly quick-maturing, but so far untried by me. It is certainly much more vigorous than my other 'standard' Yacon variety. Around this goes Oca, then on the outside edge are the Chinese Artichokes.

This little experiment could easily be scaled up to an informal linear raised bed (or 'lazy bed') if one wanted. It could even work on a commercial scale if suitable harvesting machinery was available.

With all the incorporated compost, thorough deep cultivation, and dense weed-suppressing foliage, this is also ideal as a once-and-for-all soil improvement method before turning ground over to no-dig culture.

Drought is the problem this season. All three crops are showing stress, but it will still be interesting to see what quantity of tubers can be got from this single square metre of ground.

Update 31/8/10

The drought has given way to a couple of weeks of pleasant showery weather. The soil moisture, no doubt helped by all that compost in the mound, has caused the Yacon to double in size. It is now seven foot wide and tall, topped with a lanky bouquet of flowers.
It is even suppressing a couple of late-breaking jerusalem artichoke volunteers, and I now fear for the productivity of the Oca and Chinese artichokes.
I either need a smaller Yacon, or a larger mound!

Update 1/11/10

The first air frost on 21/10 burned back the yacon foliage, but has not completely killed it. Under its protective canopy, the Oca plants have escaped damage, unlike those planted on open beds nearby.
A few days before the frost, I noted the yacon had grown to have a spread of nine feet!

Update 12/12/10
There has been freezing weather for a couple of weeks, and the plants are showing no sign of life. It's a dry day, so a good opportunity to exhume the contents of the mound.

First up is the Yacon. It's a big one! The Health & Safety Executive would have me use a hoist for this job, but after a bit of grunting I manage to get the crown in to a wheelbarrow solely by manual handling methods.

After washing, the useable tubers weigh in at 18 lb (8.2 kg), with another pound or two of small or damaged ones.

Delving around nearer the edges of the mound reveals the 'also rans' – a moderate scattering of mostly undersized Oca and Chinese artichoke tubers.

About 1.5 kg in total – which is as much as I can expect given that the plants have been camped under dense Yacon foliage for most of the growing  season.

CONCLUSIONS
This growing method was successful in terms of yield and low-labour, despite an unusually early frost. Next year it will be even easier; it will only be necessary to plant the Yacon, as there should be ample volunteer Oca and Chinese artichokes.

The imbalance in yield between the three crop species was caused by misjudging the vigour and final size of the particular variety of Yacon chosen. I mistakenly assumed it would be similar to the 'standard' Yacon that I have grown previously, and as a result the Oca and particularly the Chinese artichokes suffered from lack of light. However, a variety being too successful is a good fault, as they say.

It is an interesting and potentialy useful observation that the Oca were protected from the first frost by the Yacon foliage. Yacon, not being reliant on day length, can tuberise early, before sacrificially protecting undergrowing tender crops which have yet to fully tuberise. The partial defoliation lets through more light to ground level, and as long as there is not a second frost, the lower crops benefit.

Early Sprouter, Early Flowerer.

Yesterday, amongst the Oca / Sweetcorn bed, I was surprised to see one of the Oca was flowering already. In my experience this is a couple of months earlier than usual.  Consulting my notebook, I see that the plant is one of a selection that I have tentatively labeled 'Real Seeds Red (Early Sprouting)', as it is the second generation of tubers to be earlier to spring in to life than standard Real Seeds Red.

Perhaps there is a connection - the plant is vigorous, and generally keen to get on with life, and will go on to produce early tubers. But I am realistic enough to look for other explanations. The plants suffered some frost damage after they were planted out, and it may have acted as a stimulus to flowering.  This would certainly be a beneficial trait at the end of the growing season - a 'set seed before it is too late' gene.
Alternatively, watering with dilute urine stimulates flowering, or then again it's just a freak occurrence.

It gives me a chance to practice identifying Oca stylar morphs. This seems to be mid styled.

Anyway, the act of flowering is forlorn in this case, as there are no suitable pollination partners available yet (EDIT ...or so I thought - see first comment to this post, from Rhizowen). I looked around with frustration and notice Creeping Woodsorrel (Oxalis corniculata), a cousin of Oca, growing as a weed in the next bed. It's flowering. The flower structure looks very similar to Oca's.  Hmmm...

... I'm knowledgeable enough to know that it shouldn't work, but ignorant enough not to be sure it's impossible. There's nothing to loose by trying it.

EDIT During the following two weeks, three more of the same variety flowered, but none of the other varieties. Curious.
I was joking previously when I mentioned Watering with dilute urine but these plants are benefiting from this feed intended for the interplanted sweet corn, and it's the only difference in cultural treatment which I can think of that could be a factor. Anyway, all attempts at pollination whether by other mid-styled oca, or by unlikely motley related species have been unsuccessful so far. I'm now watching out for any official legitimate pollinators coming in to flower.  Work commitments are making it impossible for me to regularly patrol the plot during the crucial period around midday when flowers open, so there's a fair chance I'm going to miss the vital moments.

On an unrelated topic, since I read up a bit on vegetable breeding, I seem to be noticing mutations all around me now. Anyone for a bearded strawberry?

Oca versus Frost

I always like to have a nice photo to illustrate a post, but this time, viewers of a nervous disposition should look away.

The photo shows Oca tubers slightly, partially, and completely damaged by the recent period of sub-zero conditions. It seems that the frost has penetrated 50 to 70 mm below the soil surface, causing quite a few casualties - around 20% of tubers had to be discarded. Affected tuber flesh looses its colour and crisp texture, taking on the appearance of clammy rubbery white maggot flesh. Within a day or two a characteristic smell of decay appears, and the maggots are on the way to becoming biological soup.   Some might attempt to turn this into a delicacy, but not me.

According to Lost Crops of the Incas... " Farmers mound dirt over the base of the plants to encourage stolon formation". But stolons aplenty appear without earthing-up, so maybe a more important reason is to protect tubers from frost once the stems have died back.

Hard or prolonged frost is unusual here in West London, and I consider this year's cold snap a rare event, so do not plan to routinely earth-up Oca crops in the future. Quite apart from the extra work involved, it would be awkward in most bi-crop situations, and it goes against my preference for minimum-tillage cultivation.

Anyhow, plenty of tubers escaped damage...

2009 Crop - Harvest Results

31st December. It's 25 days since the first light frost, and 16 days since harder frost completely killed the foliage.

Having made the decision that the crop is ready to harvest, and having lifted the first plant, two things immediately sprang to mind. Firstly, it's a heavy crop, definitely more productive than last year. And secondly, a nagging doubt that the stems are not all as dead as they could be, and consequently the plants could still be transporting sap to the tubers.

It's possible to go too far with the waiting game, but you don't know where 'too far' is until you go there, so rather than lift all the plants now, I've decided to lift them individually at intervals of a day or two, weighing each plant's tubers, to see if there is any increase in the yield-per-plant over the next couple of weeks. If I'm right, it should plateau-off at some point, and this will give an indication of the optimum harvest time.

Weighing the tubers from the first plant was a pleasant surprise. 795g of large, and 405g of small tubers, giving a total of 1200g. (Definition of large and small tubers here). Annoyingly, I did not weigh last year's harvest, but I would estimate this year's to be almost double.

Update: 28/1/10 Results of the waiting game:
It started off so well, the crop from the first three plants supporting my hunch completely, but then the weather put a spanner in the works by freezing the ground for a couple of weeks. This caused the local wildlife to get extra hungry, some of whom developed a taste for Oca tubers. The result of this was an unknown quantity of tubers being scratched up and carried away, and the experiment was ruined.

Anyway, here are the limited results of the experiment, which allow some conclusions to be drawn:

Plant 1 (16 days after killing frost) 1200g  (OPI= 0.99)

Plant 2 (17 days after killing frost) 1217g  (OPI= 1.01)

Plant 3 (19 days after killing frost) 1407g  (OPI= 1.14)

Then came a period of snow and frozen conditions when no plants were lifted until:

Plant 4 (26 days after killing frost) 1155g  (OPI= 0.98)

More freezing weather with starving crows, rats, and feral ring-necked parakeets helping themselves:

Plant 5 (34 days after killing frost) 717g  (OPI=0.62)

finally, abandoning the experiment, I lifted all remaining plants. Weights include damaged tubers:

Plants 6 to 12 (43 days after killing frost) average yield 1038g (OPI not calculated)

Tubers exposed and damaged by birds.

Conclusions

• Tuber weight may reach maximum at about 20 days after killing frost, or possibly even later. However the sample size here is so small that the data is not statistically significant, and no definite plateau was identified. It is quite possible that different temperature conditions would produce a different result.
• Average yields of over 1kg, and peak yields approaching 1.5kg per plant are achievable in the south of the UK without using fertilisers, protected cropping, or labour-intensive cultural methods, even when bi-cropped.
• Even if buried, tubers can be damaged by penetrating frosts, or raided by hungry birds, which can nullify any benefit of waiting for the purported optimum harvest time. Where freezing conditions are expected, it may be worth the extra work to earth-up, or provide other physical protection.  
• The primary bi-crop (tomatoes) did not show any noticeable variation in yield relative to the control bed (which had the same spacing, but with French marigolds instead of Oca). N.B. the tomato yield was not weighed, so this conclusion is based on subjective judgement.